Mar 7th - Rapa Nui continued

March 7th - Rapa Nui - continued

Our first day in Rapa Nui had focussed on the major important sites. Our second day in Rapa Nui was looking at the exceptions and unusual Maoi as well as some of the local geology and its significance in Rapa Nui history.

We started with a visit to a Maoi in one of the small harbours the local fishing vessels use. It is also the location of the only Rapa Nui Chilean coastguard boat which is just a large zodiac, not nearly enough to prevent overfishing in these waters by large vessels.

There is a proposal to make an area of ocean a marine reserve to protect both from overfishing and to provide safe nurseries for the local fish and a source of line fishing for local Rapa Nui small boat fishermen.

From there on to a site Te Peu with 5 stone Maoi heads with a difference.

These are the only ones facing outwards and the significance here is that they are perfectly aligned with the winter & spring solstice and are facing the direction of Tahiti where it is believed by the Rapa Nui that their ancestors came from following a dream the king had. The Polynesians believe dreams are the way the dead communicate with them and took this dream as a message. They set off in large canoes are arrived at Anakaren which we visited yesterday.

They believe these Maoi are facing back towards their homeland channeling the Mana (power) of their ancestors.

Next stop was the quarry at Puna Pau where the red stone that was used for the topknots of the Maoi was from. This is the only location in the island to have this red volcanic stone. The Rapa Nui believed that anything to do with the head signified power and status (hence the stone head Maoi’s) and therefore a topknot of special coloured stone was seen as extra status.

This even extended to their early dealings with foreigners, when a sign of high status was a sailors hat !

Female Maoi - The only one on the island

All of the Maoi so far had been male as they were the leaders of the clan, so our next stop at Vinapu was one of the unusuals – a female Maoi. These were apparently very rare during the Maoi period.

At a point in history, the resources on the island became scarce. All the trees had been used, rats had destroyed the palms that produced coconuts and the islanders began warring over the scarce resources. At this point the Maoi carving ceased as they no longer had the time or resources to afford it.  As part of the war, many

Maoi pushed over in their war 

Maoi were toppled by enemies as a way of dishonouring an enemies ancestors.

After the war, the people were so poor and enslaved, they turned against the ancestors for not looking after them and giving them good Manu and they then toppled their own families Maoi’s.

The island was annexed by Chile in 1888 and they then rented it and all the inhabitants to a British company called Williamson & Balfour and they populated the island with sheep and virtually enslaved the local population through to 1953.  (Another embarrassed to be British moment in our travels..)

At this time the islanders were so unhappy, many of them left the island in canoes to look for new lives and there is a memorial to some of these at the little harbour we visited first today. Many were lost at sea. The nearest island is the Pitcairns 2000km away half way to Tahiti which is 4000 km away and mainland Chile and the Galapagos Islands both 3500km away.

It really brings home the vastness of the ocean when you travel for 5 hours by plane and see no land at all and these seas are high swell & rough.

Our last stop for today was Rano Kau and Orongo. Rano Kau is the largest volcanic crater on the island, which is completely volcanic with many small craters. It was just stunning, filled with fresh water and a complete eco system of its own from seeds dropped by birds etc. It had oranges, mangos, avocado and a locally used herb which when tested by biologists proved to have natural antibiotic properties and is now used in drugs to help prevent organ rejection after transplants.

Until the 1960’s the local people used to bring their washing up here and climb down the track into the crater to use the fresh water for their washing. They would then dry it on the rocks and spend the day there eating fruit and enjoying the area.

It has the most tranquil atmosphere, it is easy to see why it was seen as such an important site for the Rapa Nui people.

It was also significant in the Birdman ceremony, which evolved after the belief in ancestors faltered as a way of identifying the family or clan that should rule the island for the next year.

The strongest warrior from each clan would in the spring when the birds nested on Moto Nui island, join a competition where they had to climb down the outside of the crater to the sea, swim to Moto Nui island, stay there for several days until the sooty terns laid their eggs, then they strap the first egg to their head, swim back and climb back up the crater. First one back is the Birdman for that year.

A temporary village called Orongo at the  edge of the crater opposite the island came into use each year for the family chiefs and supporters to use during the competition.

Not a game for sissies, they had no climbing aids, tried to knock each other off the cliff, the seas are very rough with huge breakers onto the rocks and all of this with a fragile egg.

The head of the family that the victorious Birdman came from would manage the islands resources and rule for one year until the next competition.

Birdman carvings -
Annual event that lasted many years

By this time we were again melting in the hot afternoon sun, so we called it a day and headed into downtown Hanga Roa for home made ice cream.

Only 28c but the air is rare and the UV index maximum and with the high humidity made walking a long way tough.

As we walked through, the local fishermen were unloading a Blue Marlin just caught from a small canoe.

Once we had cooled off, we headed for the Catholic church which we had been told to visit to see the representation of Christ and the Virgin Mary. 

When we got there we could see why………they were all Rapa Nui !!

We had decided for our last day to hire a car and get up for sunrise at Tongariki and then drive round the island to see places we hadn’t covered. Car hire was mega expensive (captive market !) so we hired the lowest price we could so we ended up in a Suziki Jimmy 2 door jeep. This was to prove a painful economy !!

Time for dinner and from recommendations, we found a great restaurant on the sea with a good table and great fish. Steve and Paul channelled their inner cocktail drinker and downed some very strong raspberry mojitos !!  Sunset was beautiful & then they lit a fire and everyone sat round drinking in the glow. Very special…… 

Another day in a little paradise island !

11 Heads of Easter Island
 - 4 not working well due to heat